5 How To Sail A Boat (Complete With Pictures)

How To Sail A Boat - For centuries, the sea has captured the spirits of sailors and adventurers around the world. In his poem "Sea Fever," John Masefield claimed that all he needed to feel complete was "a tall ship and a star to steer her by." Getting started in the sailing world can be challenging, but this article will help guide you through the ebbs and flows of the nautical world. As a note, this article will help you get started, but it cannot be stressed enough that you should have an experienced sailor show you your boat's standing and running rigging and their functions before venturing out on the water on your own.

• Acquire basic sailing skills

Know the different parts of a sailboat. Knowing the different parts is important, both for safety reasons and to be able to sail your boat as efficiently as possible. If you don't know what to do when someone suddenly yells, "Prepare turns" or "Watch outriggers!" you could be in trouble.

Block: This is the nautical term for a roll.

Boom: The horizontal support for the foot of the mainsail that extends aft of the mast. This is something to watch out for when changing direction in a sailboat. It can give you quite a knock on the head if it hits you.

Bow: This is what the front of the boat is called.

Centerboard: This is a (usually fiberglass) plate that pivots from the underside of the keel on some boats and is used to balance the boat under sail.

Cleat: Cleats are what lines (or rope) are attached to when they need to be kept taut.

Haul: Lines that raise or lower the sails. (Along with the sheets, aka running rigging.)

Hull: The hull is the hull of the boat and consists of everything below deck.

Jib: This is the sail at the bow of the boat. The jib helps propel the boat forward.

Genoa: A headsail larger than a jib.

Keel: The keel prevents a boat from slipping sideways ("drift power") no matter what direction the wind is blowing and stabilizes the boat.

Line: Lines are ropes. They are everywhere on boats. There is only one "rope" on a sailboat, the anchor line, that runs along the base of the mainsail.

Mainsail: As the name suggests, this is the mainsail of the boat. It is the sail that is attached to the mast at the back.

Mast: The mast is a large, vertical pole that holds the sails up. Some boats have more than one mast.

Painter: This is a line positioned at the front of small boats. It is used to tie the boat to a dock or other boat.

Rudder: The boat is steered with the rudder. It is moveable, so when you turn the wheel or tiller, the rudder steers the boat in the desired direction.

Sheets: The lines that control the sails. (aka running rigging.)

Spinnaker: The usually brightly colored sail used when sailing downwind or crosswind.

Stays and shrouds: Some wires ensure that the mast stays upright even in very strong winds. (aka standing rigging.)

Stern: This is the designation for the stern of the boat.

Tiller: The tiller is a stick attached to the rudder and used to control the rudder.

Transom: This is what we would call the rear of the boat. It is the rear part of the boat that is perpendicular to its center line.

Wheel: The wheel operates the rudder and steers the boat.

Winch: Winches help tension sheets and halyards. When these lines are wrapped around a winch (clockwise), a sailor can turn the winch with a winch handle, giving a mechanical advantage that makes it easier to bring in the lines.

Find out about the different types of sailing boats. In general, as a budding sailor, you most likely will not operate your own schooner. You will probably work with a catboat, cutter or sloop.

Sloop : Sloops are the most common type of sailboat (when you think of a sailboat, this is probably the one that comes to mind.) It has a single mast and is rigged with a jib at the front and a mainsail attached to the back of the mast. They can vary in size and are ideal for sailing upwind.

Catboat : A catboat has a mast near the front of the boat and is a single-sail boat. They are small (or large) and easily operated by one or two people.

Cutters : Cutters have a mast with two sails at the front and a mainsail at the back of the mast. These boats are intended for small crews or groups of people and are relatively easy to handle.

Ketch : A ketch has two masts, the second mast being called a mizzen mast. The mizzen is shorter than the main mast and is located forward of the rudder.

Yawl : Yawls are similar to ketchen except that their mizzen masts are behind the rudder. The reason for this placement is that the mizzen on dinghies is used to balance rather than propel the boat forward.

Schooners : Schooners are large sailing boats with two or more masts. The mast at the rear of the boat is either taller than or the same height as the mast at the front of the boat. Schooners were used for commercial fishing, to transport goods, and as warships.

Know common terms used on a sailboat. Aside from the terms used for the different parts of the boat, there are also certain terms that sailors commonly use when at sea (or heading out to sea). A trick to remembering that port is left and starboard is right is that starboard has two 'Rs' in it, which is the first letter of 'right'. Starboard, Green and Right have more letters than Port, Red and Left. You can also consider that "port wine is red".

Port: When facing the bow (the front of the boat), the side to your left is the port side.

Starboard: Starboard is the right side of the boat as you face the bow.

Windward: As the name suggests, windward is the direction the wind is blowing, downwind.

Leeward: This is also called "Lee". This is the direction the wind is blowing, downwind.

Tacking: Tacking is when you turn the bow of the boat through the wind so that the wind switches from one side of the boat to the other. This is when you need to be most mindful of the boom, as the boom will swing from side to side of the boat as you turn (you don't want to get in the way of it).

Jibing (jibing): This is the opposite of tacking, meaning you turn the stern (or back) of the boat through the wind so that the wind switches to the other side of the boat. This is a more dangerous maneuver than tacking in strong winds because the boat's sails are always fully driven by the wind and can react violently to the change in the boat's windward orientation. Care must be taken to control the boom during this maneuver as serious injury is possible if the boom goes uncontrolled over the cockpit.

Luff: This is when the sails begin to flap and lose drive, caused by steering the boat into the wind or loosening (loosening) the sheets.

Understand navigation buoys. It's important to look out for and heed navigation buoys - they will let you know where safe water is. In North America, red buoys are almost always left on port while green buoys are left on starboard on the way out of the marina . (Remember red-right return). For the rest of the world, this is reversed.

• Preparation of the boat

Conduct a detailed visual inspection. Examine all of the standing rigging—the cables and lines that support the mast—including the turnbuckles and cotter pins that attach the rigging to the hull. Many sailboats have been dismasted because a 15 cent cotter pin was missing! Sailing instructor Nitzan Levy advises to “check the condition of the sail as well. It should be straight and white, not worn, wrinkled, or frayed at the edges.”

Check the lines ( running rigging ) that raise and control the sails ( halyard or sheets ). Make sure they are separate, not twisted around each other or soiled on anything else, and that they all have a figure eight knot or other stopper knot on the free ( bitter ) end so they can't be pulled through the mast or sheaves.

Pull all lines from their cleats and from their winches. Nothing should bind a line; All should be able to move freely and be clear at this point.

If you have a topping lift — a small line that holds up the back of the boom and is out of the way when the sail is not in use — let it out until the boom is sagging freely down, then tie it again firmly or glue it. Watch out for the boom; it just swings around at this point; it will make a painful "pop" when it hits you or your crew. The boom will return to its normal, horizontal position when you fully hoist the mainsail.

If equipped, ensure the tiller is properly attached to the rudder and controls the rudder. Your sailboat is now ready for you to set sail!

Determine the wind direction. According to sailing instructor Nitzan Levy, “Many boats have a windex, or wind vane, at the top of the mast. You may also see flags at the top, and you can judge the wind by the orientation of the flags when flying." Levy assures that "with some experience you will be able to tell the direction of the wind , just by feeling it on your face."

If your boat doesn't have a windex, tie a few 9-inch pieces of old cassette tape, VHS tape, or oiled twine to the shrouds — the rigging cables that hold the mast up. Place them on each side about four feet from the sides of the boat. These show you which direction the wind is blowing from, although some sailors find cassettes just too sensitive for this purpose.

Point the boat into the wind. The idea is to have the minimum wind resistance when pitching the sail, with the sail straight back. In this position, the sail does not get caught on shrouds or other fittings. That is not always easy. The boat does not turn easily because it is not moving ( underway ). Do your best, but be willing to work for it!

If your boat has a motor, use the motor to keep the boat upwind while you hoist the sail.

Here's a handy tip: if the water isn't deep at your dock, or you don't have a side pier, walk the boat off the dock and anchor it in the sand, and the boat will automatically point in the direction of The Wind!

• Hoisting the sails

Fasten the sails. Attach the lower front ( tack ) of the mainsail and jib to their respective shackles on the boom and bow of the boat.

There will be a small line ( sheetholer ) that attaches the back corner of the mainsail ( umbrella horn ) to the end of the boom. Pull so that the foot of the mainsail is taut and cleat. This helps the mainsail have a smooth shape for the air flowing over it.

Raise the mainsail by pulling the halyard down until it stops. It will flap around ( luff ) like crazy , but that's okay for a short time. (Excessive luffing will drastically reduce sail life and durability).

The leading edge of the sail ( luff ) must be tight enough to remove wrinkles but not so tight that vertical wrinkles appear in the sail.

There is a cleat near the fall where it comes down from the top of the mast. Clamp the case. Using the jib halyard, raise the headsail ( jib , genoa or simply the headsail ) and clip off the halyard. Both sails will now luff freely. The sails are always the mainsail first, then the jib because it is easier to put the boat upwind with the mainsail.

Adjust course and sail trim to the wind. Sailboats cannot sail directly upwind. As shown above, the red zone on the chart indicates a "no go" zone under sail. In order to sail to windward, a sailing ship must sail about 45-50 degrees upwind and change direction by tacking (or zigzagging).

Turn the boat left ( port ) or right ( starboard ) so that it is about 90 degrees off the wind. This is called the beam reach .

Pull the mainsheet ( trim ) until the sail is about 45 degrees from straight back ( aft ). This is a safe place for the mainsail while trimming the jib.

They begin to move away from the wind and pitch ( heel). A heel greater than 20 degrees usually indicates that you are overwhelmed. Releasing the mainsheet momentarily ( breaking the mainsheet ) will reduce the heel and return you to a more comfortable 10-15 degree sail angle.

Trim the jib sheet. Although the mainsail is hoisted first, it is the jib that is trimmed first. There are two jib sheets, one for each side of the boat. Tighten the jib sheet on the leeward side . This is the active hand while the other is called the lazy hand.

The cantilever forms a curve or pocket; Trim the sail until the leading edge just stops luffing. Keep the tiller (or rudder ) in hand and stay on course!

Trim the mainsail. Let out the mainsheet until the leading edge just luffs up, then pull it back until it stops.

Unless you or the wind have changed direction, this is the most efficient place to set sail. If something changes, you need to adjust them accordingly.

You have just entered the world of the sailor and you must learn to do many things at once or face the consequences.

• Sail a boat

Watch the leading edge of the sail on the mainsail and jib. When it begins to luff you have two choices: tighten the sail until it no longer luffs, or steer away from the wind (bear away ) . If the sail luffs, it means you are steering too far into the wind for your current sail setting. If you bear away slightly (away from the wind), your sails will stop luffing.

Pay attention to your wind indicators (pilot lights ) . If you see it change so that the wind is coming from a direction further behind you, you're wasting energy. Let out the sail until it is perpendicular to the wind. You'll be constantly watching the sails, the indicator lights and trimming the sails because the wind doesn't blow from a constant direction for long.

When the wind is from behind and to the side ( aft quarter ), it is said to have a wide reach . This is the most efficient sailing point as both sails are full of wind and are pushing the boat with full force.

When the wind is at your back, you run with the wind . This is not as efficient as grappling as air moving across the sail creates lift and more power than just the wind propelling the boat.

When going downwind you can pull the jib to the other side of the boat where it fills. This is called wing-on-wing , and you must keep a steady hand on the tiller to maintain this sail configuration. Some boats have a "whisker pole" that attaches to the front of the mast and clew of the jib, making the jib much easier to control and keep full wind. Watch out for obstacles and other ships, as both sails in front of you will block a significant portion of your view.

Be careful - when the boat is running the sails will go wide to one side and because the wind is basically behind you the boom can suddenly switch sides ( jibe or gybe ) and smash across the cockpit with quite some force.

If you have a wind direction indicator at the top of your mast, do not run downwind so that the wind indicator is pointing toward the mainsail. If this is the case, you are sailing with the boom on the windward side ( sailing downwind ) and are at high risk of an accidental jibe. If this happens, the boom can hit you with enough force to knock you unconscious and out of the boat ( overboard ).

It is good practice to fit a preventer (a line from the boom to the toe rail or other cleat available) to limit boom movement across the cockpit in the event of an accidental gybe.

Close range. Turn the boat slightly into the wind ("head up") so your heading is about 60-75 degrees off the wind. You need to trim the sheets tighter to make the sails more closely match the boat. This is called close range . Her sails act like the wings of an airplane: the wind pulls the boat instead of pushing it.

local transport. Keep turning into the wind ( head up ) and tighten the sheets until you can go no further (the jib should never touch the spreaders on the mast). This is called close -hauled and is as close to the wind as possible (about 45-60 degrees from the wind). On a gusty day you will have tons of fun with this sailing point!

Sail upwind to an upwind destination. Sailing instructor Nitzan Levy explains that “You can't sail directly upwind – you have to maintain a certain angle to move forward.” Sail a good course, upwind, towards your target speed, a close range. Upwind, the mainsail and foresail are pulled tight along the centerline of the boat, allowing the boat to sail closest to the wind, but the speed is slower.

On most sailboats, this is about 45 degrees downwind.

When you have gone as far as you can on this tack, turn the boat through the wind (or change direction by tacking ), release the jib sheet from its cleat or winch drum while the front of the boat ( bow ) turns through the wind.

Main and outriggers come over the boat. The mainsail will raise itself on the other side, but you must quickly pull the jib sheet to its cleat or winch on the now downwind side while steering the boat for the mainsail to fill up and start pulling again.

If you get this right, the boat won't slow down much and you'll be sailing the other way, upwind. If you take too long to re-tighten the jib sheet and the boat bears too heavily from the wind, don't panic. The boat is pushed to the side a little until it picks up speed.

Another scenario would be if you don't get the bow of your boat through the wind fast enough and the boat comes to a complete stop. This is known as being stuck in irons , which is embarrassing, but every sailor has experienced it, whether they admit it or not, it's a different story. The lack of iron is easily remedied: when the boat is blown backwards you can steer, and when the bow is pushed out of the wind you achieve a suitable angle to the wind to sail.

Point the tiller in the direction you want to go and pull the jib sheet to windward ( tacking the sail ). The wind will push the bow through the wind. When you're done tacking, untie the sheet from the windward winch and tuck the sheet down leeward and you're on your way again.

Since speed is so easily lost when turning, you should perform this maneuver as smoothly and quickly as possible. Keep tacking back and forth until you reach your destination.

Take it easy when you study. Realize that it's best to practice on calm days, for example to learn how to reef your boat (make the sails smaller). You must do this when the wind is too strong and you get overwhelmed.

Reefing almost always has to be done before you think you need it!

It's also a good idea to practice capsizing on a calm day too. Knowing how to right your boat is a necessary skill.

Sail safely. Remember that your anchor and its chain/line (anchor chain ) are important pieces of safety equipment and can be used to prevent your boat from going aground or even be used to float the vessel again, in the event of ground contact.

• Storage of the sails

Lower and store your sails.Once safely in port, lower your sails by releasing the tension on one of the lines, "If", holding the sails up. Once you have taken in your mainsail it can be neatly "flaked" and secured to the boom with several ties and then covered. If your sails are not going to be used for a long period of time, they should be loosely folded and stowed in their sail bags. You may need to do this for both your mainsail and jib. Remove all battens from their pockets before folding the mainsail. Don't fold your sails the same way every time or they will develop deep folds that won't be shaken out by the wind. Your sails should be stored dry and largely salt-free,

Clean anything else that may have changed. Secure lines by tying them to cleats. Wrap all loose lines neatly and secure with zip ties to prevent anyone from walking around the deck. Wash the deck with salt, especially if you have a teak deck. Salt can stain the wood.